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The following are my observations from three weeks of travel. Many reflect the ideas Liz wrote in the travel section. I am sure I am wrong on some of these but here is what I feel (in no particular order):

1. Nearly everyone seemed fit and well fed. Few signs of malnutrition or obesity.
2. The people are very nice. Of course, the street vendors can be persistent.
3. No one wears glasses. There must be a lot of people looking at a bleary world.
4. Dental care is on a par with eye care.
5. Everything happens right on the dirt. There are few tables, little pavement. The street is dirt and the dirt goes to the door. And often inside the door.
6. Village look like a collection of buildings without signs or commerce of any kind.
7. While people are nice, they expect some sort of payment for any small favor they bestow.
8. Virtually all automobiles are for toubobs (whites.) Mali nationals use Chinese motorbikes and animals for transportation.
9. Gas (for motorbikes) is sold in refilled liquor bottles, all sitting on an outdoor shelf.
10. There are mosques everywhere but seem fairly empty. (Friday prayers at the Djenne mosque was the exception; it was absolutely packed. With men.) The people are 90% Muslim with most of the rest animists. Islam is practiced in a unique way. It seems many of the Muslims maintain some core of animist beliefs (keeping their bases covered?) There are no problems getting beer (95% is Castel, pretty good.) Only Muslims allowed in mosques. No pork. No public drunkenness.
11. There was very little police presence except as we left Timbuktu, where the government was belately sending army personnel to deal with Al Qaeda threats.
12. Despite being in Mali during the prime tourist season (November to January), we saw few tourists. Most of those we did see were French and very, very few from the US.
13. Our food was very good but minimal choices. Entries were capitaine (an excellent river fish from the perch family) cooked in a multitude of ways, brochettes of beef, sheep, and spaghetti. The side was French fries, couscous, or rice. Breakfast was a French petit dejeuner. Needless to say, this is not what Mali natives eat which is mostly millet with sauces.
14. Every woman seems to be carrying a baby tied to her back with a scarf. There were two feet poking out from the mother’s waist. Since women have eight children on average, there are small children tagging along taking care of siblings.
15. A child of ten has substantial daily chores such as carrying water and watching siblings.
16. Mali music is absolutely great. Much of it is a cross between jazz and blues.
17. Streets are named with a number and not a word.
18. Toyota and Mercedes comprise virtually all the cars on the road.
19. The Niger (and is tributary the Bani) are the backbone, the support, and the transportation for the country. There are virtually no bridges over the Niger, just ferries.
20. Tribes are distinct and the differences are important and maintained. There is a pecking order with the Fulani, Tuaregs, and another on top of the heap. However, the tribes generally get along with each other (but I think everyone keeps an eye on the Tuaregs.)
21. The French are gone since 1960 but French is the official language.  The most broadly used local language (Bamarian) is just developing a written form. However, only a third of the people speak French. (No one speaks English.) Most of the tourists are French. The Malians are so-so on the French, whom they see as condescending.
22. Not so much has changed in 150 years. Cell phones, motorbikes, and electricity in the cities is probably the short list. For much of the population, life has changed a little.

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