December 7, 2009
After a quick look at the market this morning, we drove 2 hours to Mopti, back on the Niger, and the center of fishing activity.
The 10th day of a 19-day trip; a malaise hits me and colors everything I see. The market in Djenne this morning was probably picturesque and interesting but all I saw was dirt, crowds, unkempt children running wild, and women trying to sell me more jewelry. A 2-hour drive to Mopti, back on the Niger drops us into a fishing city that is more crowded and dirtier than anything so far. The market on the river has long dense stretches with baskets of smoked fish baking in the heat. After that, there are huge piles of clothes. Ogo explains that these are second-hand clothes, from Europe and the US. Originally meant to be given to Africans free, the people from the boats that bring them sell them to others, who continue to sell up the chain until families can buy them. Even more distressing is to see mosquito netting, clearly marked “Ne pas vendre,” not to be sold, for sale. Such materiel comes to doctors to help fight malaria and other insect born diseases. These doctors sell it into the chain.
That night, at dinner, it is apparent that the mid-trip malaise is spread. Rosemary and I are sick, having skipped the afternoon events. She just stares at her dinner. Maynard and Ginny say they are fine, but both of them droop with their heads on their hands all evening. Only Jim and Lee seem okay, talking to each other from opposite ends of the table, not noticing the funk surrounding the rest of us.